"For decades, the Makran, indeed all of Balochistan, was off-limits, not only to Westerners but Pakistanis from outside the province too," said my guide, Amir Akram, as Karachi's vast suburbs slowly gave way to mesquite-covered scrubland. "Previously, I wouldn't have dared to come here because of the separatist movement and the presence of some militant Islamists. But nowadays, the army have Balochistan under control. We're safe. Travelling with a security detail is just SOP: Standard Operational Procedure. It's also the only way to see the Makran Coast, and I want you show you the highlights of one of the most beautiful, friendly and culturally rich regions in all of Pakistan." (While it is still complex to arrange travel to the area, that it is possible at all is a relatively recent development, Akram said.)
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