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Can luxury fashion brands ever really be inclusive?
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Luxury goods tend to be associated with exclusivity rather than inclusivity. But thanks to the universal scrutiny of social media and consumer activism, high-end brands are under increasing pressure to be seen as companies who care.
Some have spent large sums on initiatives which address environmental concerns, or used their expertise to help deal with the pandemic.
The Kering group (which owns Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen) has, for example, set a target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by 2025.
In response to COVID-19, fashion house Burberry donated more than 100,000 pieces of PPE to the NHS and healthcare charities. Meanwhile, luxury firm LVMH used its perfume manufacturing facilities to make free hand sanitiser for the healthcare system in France.
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Yet it remains unclear whether consumers can reconcile the exclusive nature of luxury brands – selling at prices many cannot afford – with a public image of sustainability and environmental or social awareness. A range of studies has shown that consumers are ambivalent about such efforts. Research into millennials’ attitudes showed that younger consumers even see the concepts of luxury and sustainability as contradictory.
This is understandable, for some brands’ apparent attempts to tackle societal challenges have come after they received widespread criticism for their own apparent failings.
Gucci for example, has a US$1.5 million (£1 million) plan to support young designers from underrepresented backgrounds. But it was launched after the brand faced accusations of racism over a jumper design.
And while Prada has spoken out against racial injustice on social media, the company has also been forced to apologise for merchandise that was deemed racist. Dior, meanwhile, launched a message of support and solidarity accompanied with a black background. But again, it comes after allegations of cultural appropriation.
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